Tim Rattray

In Praise of “Old” Barbecue

Traditional barbecue is having a moment, not just in Texas but around the country. So it’s natural to wonder when the backlash might come. Though it may be overdoing it to call Josh Ozersky’s story in the Wall Street Journal, “The New Barbecue,” a call to arms, he does do a strenuous job of dismissing traditional pit-smoked meats and lavishing praise upon cooks who are “shaking up” the established ways. Leave it to a New…

TM_GranaryMeat

The Granary ’Cue and Brew

Not a typical joint by any means, the Granary is part of the flashy new Pearl retail/residential complex and occupies a renovated nineteenth-century home with high ceilings and dark-brown wood trim. The vibe is hipster carnivore: the music is modern, and the walls are covered with barbecue folk art, such as a painting of a pig with the names of his anatomy, en français. Speaking of pig, the Granary serves Carolina-style pulled pork that is…