Snow’s BBQ

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Snow’s Queen

This story about the amazing Tootsie Tomanetz originally ran in our October issue. We’re posting it here in its entirety along with a collection of photos from Wyatt McSpadden. He was assigned with capturing the essence of Tootsie for the story, which he did masterfully, but we could only run so many in print. Thankfully, McSpadden has provided some of his favorites from the shoot for this version of Snow’s Queen. Every Friday that the Buffaloes…

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Tootsie Tomanetz’s Pork Steak

Tootsie Tomanetz has been cooking barbecue for fifty years, an art she didn’t start practicing professionally until she was in her thirties. When she began her career in Giddings, offset smokers weren’t nearly as popular as they are today. Then, barbecue was cooked directly over wood coals, and that’s the way she’s always done it. When she and Kerry Bexley opened Snow’s BBQ together in 2003, Tomanetz insisted on direct-heat pits. Bexley set to building…

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The Many Briskets of Texas

Not all briskets are created equal. That much is obvious to anyone who’s had a great one—or a bad one. Those experiences are easy to contrast, but what about when it’s not a question of good or bad? When it’s a matter of simply being different? I was struck by the variety in briskets during a recent barbecue road trip between Belton and Luling. As much as the barbecue changes across the state, we know the catch-all term of…

Photograph by Jody Horton

Brisket Ain’t Cheap

Two weeks ago Cranky Frank’s Barbeque in Fredericksburg finally bit the bullet. They raised their prices for barbecue and posted a sign on the door explaining the change to their customers. Not two days later I received a question over Twitter with a photo of the sign. @bbqsnob Is this a supply-demand byproduct of the central Texas BBQ renaissance? At Cranky Frank’s, Fredericksburg. pic.twitter.com/UjvtJ7WJgH — Chris Creel (@chriscreel) March 30, 2014 Not even close. Complaining…

Lines Big Apple

Everybody Line Up

“Line are overrated.” This is the conclusion of economist Tyler Cowen in a recent article where he shared some of his principles for finding good restaurants. For Cowen, standing in line is a conformist activity, and the presence of a line is a not a good indicator of the quality of food inside. This principle was aimed at all restaurants, especially those that manufacture an unnecessary line, but it got me thinking: what does a line,…

BBQ Photographers: Wyatt McSpadden

Every month we’ll bring you a profile of a photographer who has captured the people, the food and the spaces that make up the world of barbecue. Wyatt McSpadden – Austin, Texas I’ve been shooting pictures at BBQ places around Texas for better than 25 years. I’ve had the pleasure of meeting and photographing the folks who smoke the meats, take the money, clean the tables and enjoy this great food. Until the Spring of 2013 I…