Lockhart Smokehouse

Beef Navel 02

BBQ Anatomy 101: Beef Plate

Before brisket dominated Texas barbecue, meat markets served a vast variety of smoked beef cuts. The old-school meat markets of Central Texas would smoke anything left in the case too long, most often cuts from the forequarter, like shoulder clod or beef chuck. In the Dallas area during the forties and fifties, smoked beef typically came from a little further back on the steer, specifically beef plate, a.k.a. beef navel, a.k.a. navel plate. Billy McDonald runs Mac’s…

Interview: Will Fleischman of Lockhart Smokehouse

Pitmaster: Lockhart Smokehouse, Plano; Opened 2014 Age: 42 Smoker: Indirect Heat Wood-Fired Pit Wood: Oak Will Fleischman has tattoos and steel hoops in his ears, but his most distinguishing feature is the beard. He’s hard to miss when behind the counter slicing, but it might be a while before he can get back at it. When I went in for our interview he greeted me with one arm in a sling. He broke a few bones trying to fix…

Kreuz Market building

Barbecue Sequels

If 2013 was the year of the new barbecue joint, 2014 will be the year of barbecue expansion. Some legendary Texas barbecue stalwarts who for decades were happy to be one-offs are looking to write their sequels. Southside Market (1882), in Elgin, Kreuz Market (1900) and Black’s BBQ (1932), in Lockhart, and Louie Mueller Barbecue (1949), in Taylor, will all expand their brands to a second location this year. Also included in this boom are…

Lines Big Apple

Everybody Line Up

“Line are overrated.” This is the conclusion of economist Tyler Cowen in a recent article where he shared some of his principles for finding good restaurants. For Cowen, standing in line is a conformist activity, and the presence of a line is a not a good indicator of the quality of food inside. This principle was aimed at all restaurants, especially those that manufacture an unnecessary line, but it got me thinking: what does a line,…

Interview: Mr. Bewley of A. N. Bewley Fabricators

This is an extended version of an interview with Mr. Bewley that ran in the New York Times on August 4th. I visited with Mr. Bewley in his house along with his daughter Rhonda and her husband Larry Lewis who now runs A. N. Bewley Fabricators in Dallas. Mr. Bewley was a pioneer in rotisserie pit building and worked with Herbert Oyler to design the first Oyler rotisseries. These are still being made today by…

Photo compilation with Parade promo cover by @thatssoboss

Covered in BBQ: Parade’s Homage to Texas Monthly

“Great barbecue clearly makes creative teams think alike.” Thus begins the explanation of Parade‘s food editor on why yesterday’s cover had a curious resemblance to Texas Monthly’s June cover. The Texas Monthly team worked with Franklin Barbecue to style a tray of smoked meats fitting for a cover announcing the “50 Best BBQ Joints in the World.” Texas Monthly made a big deal of it, complete with a cover reveal before the issue came out. A…