Lighting a fire

No Country for Old Luddites

So, you call yourself a barbecue traditionalist. You eschew modern innovations in the world of barbecue, like using charcoal to start your fires, and you certainly don’t believe there’s any room on American menus for “nouveau” barbecue, whatever the hell that means. To you, good sir or madam, I commend your steadfast grip on the old ways and your desire to defend all-wood cooking. I too regularly defend the merits of “old barbecue,”  and I…