Dallas

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Smoked in Texas: Mushroom Pastrami

Oliver Sitrin is no stranger to pastrami experimentation. During his time as chef at Blind Butcher on Greenville in Dallas, he’s taken his thin-sliced beef pastrami and piled it high on rye (a traditional presentation, to be sure), as well as tucked it into an egg roll. He’s made tender duck pastrami, paired it with duck bacon, and served it on a pretzel roll. And now, at the new Goodfriend Package Store on the other side of town, Sitrin…

Barbecue Crossfire

The nation is talking about Texas’s new open carry policy, and two pistol-packing pitmasters are grabbing headlines for their opposing views. Trent Brooks, of Brooks Place BBQ, welcomes open carriers to his Cypress barbecue trailer, and in fact offers a ten percent discount for anyone showing off their firearm (the 25 percent discount reported by many was just for New Years Day); on the flip side, Jack Perkins of Slow Bone Barbeque in Dallas is asking gun owners to…

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18th & Vine Barbeque

I’ve never eaten at a restaurant more often before a first review than this one. Including opening night, I’ve enjoyed seven meals at 18th & Vine since they opened the doors in early October. It helps that the restaurant is just fifteen minutes from my house, but it also takes a while to get through the menu—or rather menus. Between lunch and dinner, there are forty individual items to choose from, and I’ve eaten nearly every…

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No End to KC Getting Burnt by Texas

Kansas City deserves all the credit for one of barbecue’s greatest inventions: the burnt end. These are the crusty ends from the fatty side of the brisket that are cubed into bite-sized morsels. They’re sometimes re-seasoned and/or sauced, then smoked further to get more tender and a bit crunchy around the edges. Without them, the only brisket Kansas City would have to offer are those limp slices of deli roast beef that they call sliced brisket. Kansas…

Karl Kuby Jr.'s great grandparents and grandfather (as a child) in front of their butcher shop in Germany circa 1904. Photo provided by Karl Kuby Jr.

The Modern Marvel of Kuby’s Sausage House

When we marvel at the endurance of family-run barbecue joints in Texas, it becomes noteworthy when one hangs on for four—hell, even three—generations. So if someone deciding to make a living in the same way as their great-grandfather is pretty rare, but in the middle of Dallas, there is a business that’s been using the same sausage recipes for nearly three hundred years. Karl Kuby Jr.—the fourteenth generation of his family, in a row, to be at…

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Smoke Gets in Your Food

Just when it appeared we had hit peak bacon—last week’s introduction of Sizzl, Oscar Meyer’s dating app for bacon lovers, could be pinpointed as the moment things jumped the shark—Chris Shepherd, the chef at Underbelly in Houston, found a way to improve the most popular ingredient of the past five years. Enter bacon sausage, ground up cured and smoked pork bellies stuffed into large format casing. Shepherd unveiled the dish at Feast Portland, and, no surprise, it was a hit. Yes, this is…