brisket

The Year Old Brisket

After thousands of barbecue meals, I’ve never been struck ill by smoked meat. Maybe it’s the long cooking time, or the preservative qualities provided by a layer of wood smoke, or maybe I’ve just been lucky. Either way, I put that streak to the test over the weekend. “How long can you keep a brisket in the fridge before it goes bad,” a friend asked me one morning. It was April of last year, and…

Smoked in Texas: Dry-Aged Brisket at Killen’s Barbecue

The experimentation never seems to end at Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland. Some days you can do a side-by-side taste test of different beef rib varieties, on others owner Ronnie Killen and pitmaster Manny Torres are serving flights of various smoked briskets. And when I stopped in last week they were having some fun with dry-aged brisket. Dry-aging is a revered process in steakhouses that provides a signature nutty flavor to ribeyes and strips and fetches big…

BBQ Anatomy 101: Bone-In Brisket

At the meat markets of yesteryear, a boneless brisket would have been a special order. If beef was arriving as a half carcass, there would be no need for the butcher to remove the bones before selling or smoking the cut; doing so would have meant more work for less money. The brisket we buy from supermarkets today—packed tightly, without bones, in a plastic sheath—is a derivative of the old meat market cuts. And, funny enough, finding a bone-in…

Brisket isn’t Barbecue

There are plenty of pedantic conversations shared between barbecue devotees that are usually discussed loudly after a few beers. The latest to join the fray is Chris Fuhrmeister, an Atlanta-based food writer for Eater. He felt the best way to kick off Eater’s barbecue week was by clearing up what, exactly, constitutes barbecue. Fuhrmeister defines barbecue as “pork that’s slow-cooked with smoke.” Sorry about the brisket, beef ribs, lamb, turkey, chicken, and sausage you folks have been enjoying all…

Hot-and-Fast Brisket

Bodacious Bar-B-Que in Longview was the first stop on a barbecue road trip, and founder/owner/pitmaster Roland Lindsey, a barbecue veteran forty years my senior, boasted: “I can cook a brisket in three hours.” I called his bluff. I walked out the door promising to loop back through Longview on my way back home. Lindsey waved while stoking a mesquite fire in his old steel pit. His son-in-law Jordan Jackson cut open a fresh brisket with a smile, eager…

The McKensie Project

Researchers at Texas A&M are seeking to improve Texas barbecue. This isn’t the first time that an institution of higher learning has aspired to this lofty ambition; Harvard students already tried to design the ultimate smoker. And now the Aggies are focusing on the meat of the matter, so to speak. Earlier this week A&M’s Rosenthal Meat & Technology Center hosted a barbecue “town hall,” and among the many topics discussed, Dr. Jeff Savell mentioned a new study they were about to…