Austin

Evan LeRoy manning the Freedmen's smoker

Evan LeRoy Leaving Freedmen’s Bar

Talented pitmaster Evan LeRoy has left his position at Freedmen’s Bar in Austin. He’s planning a place of his own, but details are still vague. LeRoy told me over the phone that he hoped to have something open in the Austin area within the next year, and promised that it would be a barbecue-centric menu. In the meantime he’ll be teaching barbecue classes with the 500 gallon smoker he has parked at his home, and working with the…

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Smoked in Texas: Chicken Wings at Green Mesquite

Green Mesquite has been a fixture in South Austin since Tom Davis opened the place in 1988. The restaurant now has three locations, but the original on Barton Springs Road has all the charm of a real joint and one of the coolest neon signs in Texas. There’s an even better one inside—a glowing red bovine to remind you of the backbone of Texas barbecue: beef. But I’m here to tell you just how good their chicken is. I was first…

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Smoked in Texas: Pulled Pork at Chico & the Fox

A barbecue truck in Austin is nothing new, but there’s plenty about Chico & the Fox that is unconventional. They don’t serve sausage, ribs, or even brisket. This truck is dedicated to pulled pork. You also won’t find a rustic smoker out back. Everything is smoked in an electric Masterbuilt cabinet smoker strapped to the tail of the truck. Yet even if they don’t have a pile of wood, the pulled pork heaped on their sandwiches still…

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Smoked in Texas: Wagyu Shortrib at Qui

There’s little room for variety in the smoked beef ribs you find at Texas barbecue joints—salt, black pepper, and smoke are doled out in big doses on impressively large hunks of beef and bone. They make for an imposing sight, and are a far cry from what anyone would consider refined. Then, along came a photo of the delicate, boneless rectangle of smoked wagyu short rib at Qui in Austin that drew me in for a…

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Smoked in Texas: Macaroni & Cheese Sausage

The Smokey Denmark barbecue trailer on East Fifth Street in Austin has a new head pitmaster: Keenan Goldis. Goldis recently took over for Bill Dumas (who is now working with Lance Kirkpatrick at Stiles Switch), and he may be a familiar name to anyone who enjoyed his wild creations at the Goldis Sausage Company trailer before it closed earlier this year. I never made it there, so I was happy to see he’d been brought on by…

No, Rush Limbaugh, Austin Isn’t Banning BBQ

Yesterday Rush Limbaugh ran with a bogus story about Austin banning barbecue. The transcript now on his website, entitled “The Left Declares War on BBQ” echoes a bunch of outdated material from a recent blog post on “I Am A Texan,” which reported that the Austin City Council was banning barbecue. That’s not true. I wanted to figure out why so many people have been asking me about Austin’s impending barbecue ban over the last week,…