Aaron Franklin

John Mueller Meat Co.

You may remember last October when John Mueller was shut out of his well-regarded JMueller BBQ trailer on South First Street in Austin. He wasn’t happy about it, to say the least, but stayed quiet, plotting his return. That return will occur in just two weeks, and for smoked meat lovers everywhere, let’s hope it’s a triumphant one. Saturday, February 23rd will be the opening day of John Mueller Meat Co., and the trailer will be set…

MeatAndMen

Of Meat and Men

THEY WERE THE FIRST. At nine o’clock on a cool Friday morning last fall, three young men sat on the ground outside Franklin Barbecue, in Austin, though the restaurant wouldn’t open for another two hours. “If I’m not waiting here, I’m waiting at home,” explained Marcus Kellis. In front of him sat Jonathan Nguyen, a poet studying for his MFA at Texas State University. At the head of what would soon be a line of…

Franklin Barbecue

The music was blaring, and my regard for the speed limit was waning. I’d just finished a hearty breakfast of brisket and brisket at Snow’s in Lexington, and I was racing time to get a spot in line at Franklin Barbecue on a Saturday morning. I’d heard from the Twitterverse that lines were still sane one hour before opening at ten, but I hadn’t factored in the start of another semester at UT. Hungry folks…

Photograph by Jody Horton

Smoked Brisket

THE DISH Why do we love brisket above all other barbecued meats? Is it because of its resonant beefy flavor, its exterior as shiny as black patent leather, its rivulets of fat moistening every mouthful and staining the eater’s shirt? Yes. The very nature of brisket is to be delicious. Yet there’s more to it than that. We love brisket because cooking it is a spiritual path, a quest that, as a wise man once…

Franklin Barbecue

Just before the Texas Monthly Barbecue Festival, I met up with John Morthland at Franklin Barbecue to talk barbecue and get some breakfast. I knew I’d be stuffing myself silly in an hour or so, but I can’t rightly pass a chance to get some of Aaron Franklin’s brisket when I’m mere minutes away. A line had already formed fifteen minutes before opening on Sunday morning, but the line moved quickly once the gate was slid open. With…

Franklin Barbecue

Just before the Gettin’ Sauced event, I stopped in again at Franklin Barbecue to try the ribs and pulled pork. I knew the brisket was stellar from previous visits (I stole a bite or two from the Patron Saint on this trip too), so I wanted to check on the other meats. The ribs were just as good as the first visit. A well-formed bark was covered with a rub heavy in black pepper. The meat came…