Aaron Franklin

Photograph by Jody Horton

Smoked Brisket

THE DISH Why do we love brisket above all other barbecued meats? Is it because of its resonant beefy flavor, its exterior as shiny as black patent leather, its rivulets of fat moistening every mouthful and staining the eater’s shirt? Yes. The very nature of brisket is to be delicious. Yet there’s more to it than that. We love brisket because cooking it is a spiritual path, a quest that, as a wise man once…

Franklin Barbecue

Just before the Texas Monthly Barbecue Festival, I met up with John Morthland at Franklin Barbecue to talk barbecue and get some breakfast. I knew I’d be stuffing myself silly in an hour or so, but I can’t rightly pass a chance to get some of Aaron Franklin’s brisket when I’m mere minutes away. A line had already formed fifteen minutes before opening on Sunday morning, but the line moved quickly once the gate was slid open. With…

Franklin Barbecue

Just before the Gettin’ Sauced event, I stopped in again at Franklin Barbecue to try the ribs and pulled pork. I knew the brisket was stellar from previous visits (I stole a bite or two from the Patron Saint on this trip too), so I wanted to check on the other meats. The ribs were just as good as the first visit. A well-formed bark was covered with a rub heavy in black pepper. The meat came…

Franklin Barbecue

It’s been a while since I’ve found an honest “sugar cookie” on my brisket, but as I waited for my order to be filled, owner and pitmaster Aaron Franklin handed me a preview morsel from the fatty end of the brisket and the flavor was transcendent. If I lived in Austin, I would come here every day if I could be guaranteed a bite like that one. Drew and Brad, the boys over at Man Up…