Rio Grande Grill

417 W Van Buren Ave.
Harlingen, TX 78550

Phone: (956) 423-1817
Hours: Tues-Thur 11-3, F 11-3 & 7-10, Sat 11-3
Facebook: www.facebook.com/GRILLrio

Opened 2013 under current ownership
Pitmaster Daniel Wright
Method Mesquite in an offset smoker

TMBBQ Rating: 4.0

TMBBQ Buzz

Comments from our joint finder app.
Got a sliced to go decent but nothingto write home about
doug_wallace @ Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse, 2014-11-22 00:30:51
Had three meat combo brisket polish and hot link deviled eggs and fries everything was great good folks expect a line
doug_wallace @ Mike Anderson’s BBQ, 2014-11-21 19:03:14
Love this place
Bill coons @ Mumphord’s Place, 2014-11-20 22:23:46
Wonderful to be back. Love this pls
Bill coons @ Mumphord’s Place, 2014-11-20 22:22:54
Had a beef rib... Either best or runner up for best I've had . Excellent all around , loved the rub / char
dayolddoughnut @ La Barbecue, 2014-11-19 21:55:12
A sliced and Fritos for lunch decent Sven out of ten
doug_wallace @ Sammie’s Bar-B-Q, 2014-11-19 00:15:04
Tried the brisket, turkey, and pork chop. All dry. The jalapeño macaroni and cheese was good, the potato salad was fair, and blackberry cobbler was not very sweet.
Becky Kemp @ Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que, 2014-11-17 00:56:01
Sliced and sausage sliced had a goo ring and flavor sausage good lots of pepper potato salad and beans were good service is outstanding checked on me three times I like this place
doug_wallace @ Hickory Stick Bar-B-Q, 2014-11-15 22:08:49
More Buzz →

Review

Rio Grande Grill 06

December 23, 2013

For a small joint, there are plenty of cooks in this kitchen. Daniel Wright is the pitmaster, his wife Stefania Trimboli-Wright is the chef, her sous chef is Roque Luis Peña, and they even have a pastry chef – Drew Mann. They all have their specialty, but as a group they’ve pumped some energy back into the Rio Grande Grill. They took over from a previous owner back in January of this year and quickly made some changes, but a few things remain the same. The old wood-burning pits in the smoke house out back are still smoking, but these days they’re full of prime briskets.

Rio Grande Grill 03

Owner/Pitmaster Daniel Wright (left) and pastry chef Drew Mann (right)

If it weren’t for a number of positive reader emails, I might not have found reason to stop. I stopped here with a McAllen resident who prides himself in keeping up with the local food scene, but this place had flown below his radar as well. After tasting very little in the way of solid brisket in South Texas, the beef at Rio Grande Grill was a revelation. Dense slices from the flat had good smoke from the mesquite and a well rendered rim of untrimmed fat. At 2:30 in the afternoon it was a bit dry, but it was still some of the best I’ve tried in the area. A chicken thigh was still miraculously moist. The skin was chewy, but it had some great smokiness. I asked owner Daniel Wright how they kept it so moist. “We do several batches throughout the day.” That extra effort is worth it. The only meat that was lacking a bit was the pulled pork. It was plenty moist and smoky, but it really needed some seasoning. That wasn’t anything a spoonful of homemade chimichurri and a warm four tortilla couldn’t fix. You have your choice of Texas toast of those tortillas, or you can get both if you ask nicely.

Rio Grande Grill 09

A combo plate at Rio Grande Grill

Once we’d had our fill I asked for a few slices of fatty brisket. It was truly stunning. The meat was buttery soft with a rich smokiness deep into each slice. This was brisket worth coming back for, but be sure to ask for it right off the bat. Ribs would have to wait since they’re only available as a special. You’re also likely to find daily specials like smoked shrimp or fried chicken too.

Rio Grande Grill 04

Fatty brisket

Choosing the side items was tougher than a simple choice between potato salad or slaw. There’s also queso, rice & beans, tortilla soup and tacos. The smoked fish taco and tortilla soup were our choices. The soup was loaded with chicken, pico and fresh avocado. A fish taco with a citrus dressing was more filling than any side needs to be. It was a welcome change from the normal side offerings, but was also the only item we tried that hadn’t taken well to the powerful mesquite smoke. It was hard to taste the fish over the smoke.

Rio Grande Grill 02

Smoked fish taco and tortilla soup

When Wright sat down with us in the middle of the empty dining room he was visibly excited to talk about their food philosophy. High quality ingredients were a priority which is why he uses Prime grade Angus from Creekstone for the briskets. When he told us it was all grass-fed I was shocked. I’d never had grass-fed brisket that well marbled. My shock wore off when I saw it was Creekstone’s line of Premium Black Angus which is very much corn-fed. Their intentions are good, but they need to be more careful with their sourcing if they really intend to use grass-fed beef.

Out back is a screened in smoke house. The pits look like antiques, and are about as inefficient as they come. One wonders how good their brisket would be if the smoker wasn’t as drafty as a barn door. The smoke poured out from every seam and the metal was so thin it sounded like I was tapping on a tin roof. Thankfully, they’re getting the best out of the equipment they inherited, and that’s good enough for now.

Rio Grande Grill 08

Offset pit at Rio Grande Grill

I pondered just what we had discovered here while we ate a slice of Drew’s fantastic apple pie. Finally, someone in The Valley is doing brisket good enough to travel for. Daniel and his team are young and full of energy to keep improving, so that bodes well for their future. Now, if they can just get spare ribs on the daily menu.

Note: The restaurant closed for the holiday on Saturday and will reopen on 12/26.

Comments

1 Comment

  • KayP says:

    I LOVE their fish tacos! They are why I eat Saturday lunch there. My S.O. enjoys the enchiladas suisas with the smoked chicken and the pulled pork. And they have great beans, with smokey meaty bits. The chimichuri sauce is great, and I love the cilantro sauce and the mango habanero sauce with the fish tacos. TIP: The mango habanero sauce makes a fantastic topping for their homemade ice cream! I like the cole slaw too, it’s got a nice dressing and is not over-dressed. I enjoy the fact their food is not over-salted like you find at so many restaurants. And they are friendly and willing to modify the order to suit your preferences. They also showcase local musical talent, which is an added bonus.

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