Reviews, News, & Interviews

Boatmans BBQ 01

Boatman’s BBQ

When I left Boatman’s BBQ a year ago, I wasn’t sure it would last this long. And that’s wasn’t an indictment on the barbecue. It’s just that getting a steady stream of business into this small joint in the middle of the tiny town of Tolar is a challenge, as if cooking barbecue for a living is enough of one on its own. But the Boatman family has hung in there, and the barbecue has gotten…

BBQ News: 10/07 – 10/13

– Apparently, Arby’s thinks smoking a brisket is pretty easy. Then again, they just have to warm it up in the microwave:   – J C Reid asks if the character of a pitmaster matters when choosing which barbecue joints to visit. – M-Train BBQ has opened in the lot vacated by John Mueller Meat Co. in Austin. – After being praised by the Dallas Morning News last week, Heim Barbecue gets the spotlight in…

Pit Rooms Franklin 01

Hacking Wood Cooked BBQ in Houston

There was some empty talk last year about Austin banning wood-cooked barbecue. The proposal went up in, ahem, smoke, and disappointed salesman for expensive “smoke scrubbers” were forced to turn their attention to other cities. The episode reminded us how much we cherish the traditional cooking methods of Texas barbecue and how much it contributes to our culinary identity. It was also a reminder of how the whims of city governments could take it all away. I recently wrote…

Lakewood Smokehouse Burger 03

Smoked in Texas: Smokehouse Burger at Lakewood Smokehouse

Until recently, every smoked burger I’ve eaten has resulted in a contradiction of the palate. Smoky beef seasoned with salt and pepper hits all the positive taste receptors, but to trigger those you have to chew on a patty as dry as mesquite. It doesn’t take long to overcook a burger in a smoker, which isn’t a surprise because it’s a tool generally used to cook meat far beyond well done. That’s why every juicy bite…

Photo from M-Train's Facebook Page

M-Train BBQ Takes Over John Mueller Lot

There’s some life at John Mueller’s old lot at 6th and Pedernales in Austin. M-Train BBQ opened quietly last Friday to “test the waters,” as owner Mikey Perez puts it. A new food truck and a new trailer-mounted, custom-built smoker now sit in the lot behind Kellee’s Place (a bar owned by Perez’s uncle). It’s the first time Perez has owned a barbecue business, but he’s had plenty of experience working with John Mueller for…

BBQ News: 09/30 – 10/06

– Behold the Bubba tater: Not for purists: @jcreidtx on that guilty bbq pleasure, the loaded baked potato https://t.co/Q1H23FztPj via @HoustonChron — Alison Cook (@alisoncook) October 2, 2016   – Aaron Franklin on his parents’s short-lived foray into barbecue: “It took them about two years to realize it was a terrible way to live.”  – KXAN heads down to Valentina’s Tex-Mex Barbecue in Austin for a full spread of barbecue tacos.  – BBQ Recon revisits…

The Pit Room 02

The Pit Room

After construction delays on a restaurant renovation and a pitmaster switch, the Pit Room opened a month ago in Houston. They’ve brought old-school, wood-cooked barbecue to the Montrose neighborhood, but the rest of the menu shows a chef’s touch. I liked it so much, I ate lunch at the Pit Room twice in one day. I had just finished a spectacular beef short rib and the best slice of cherry pie I can remember (sorry, Aunt Susie), when…

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