Reviews, News, & Interviews

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Smoked in Texas: Chicken Wings at Green Mesquite

Green Mesquite has been a fixture in South Austin since Tom Davis opened the place in 1988. The restaurant now has three locations, but the original on Barton Springs Road has all the charm of a real joint and one of the coolest neon signs in Texas. There’s an even better one inside—a glowing red bovine to remind you of the backbone of Texas barbecue: beef. But I’m here to tell you just how good their chicken is. I was first…

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Pat Gee’s Barbecue

The hand-painted wooden sign reads “Pat’s Barbecue,” but everybody calls it Pat Gee’s after its late founder, Mack Henry “Pat” Gee, who opened this barbecue shack east of Tyler, deep in the piney woods, sometime around 1963. Pat, his wife Vida, and their seven children lived just up the hill from the small, wooden building. “We all worked here at one point,” Billy Walker told me during a recent trip. He works here now with…

BBQ News: 06/17 – 06/23

– From First We Feast: How the Texas BBQ Boom Marginalizes Its African-American Roots. – Over this past weekend, Greg Gatlin of Gatlin’s BBQ in Houston made some traditional Beaumont beef links. – Rock thrower not impressed with Franklin Barbecue: The suspected serial rock thrower in Austin reviewed Franklin Barbecue on Yelp: “My dad’s is better” — raphael brion (@raphael_brion) June 17, 2016   – Rien Fertel on Rodney Scott: “Barbecue is ‘a gathering,’…

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Hawaiian Barbecue Bites

The United States has many beloved barbecue styles, but meat cooked over fire in the fiftieth state rarely enters the discussion. Hawaiian barbecue traditions have been exported by the Honolulu-based L&L Hawaiian Barbecue chain to twelve states and six other countries, but those restaurants don’t really cook barbecue. Rather, they specialize in plate lunches, which are, as they describe on their website, “the comfort food of the islands.” This is true. Plate-lunch shops are all over…

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One90 Smoked Meats

This is not a barbecue joint. As the name suggests, they specialize in smoked meats, which are mostly piled in a sandwich. If you come to One90 Smoked Meats looking for a combo plate with slaw and beans on a plastic tray, prepare to be disappointed. But if you’re happy with a fantastic smoked meat sandwich that features lots of bold flavors, then you’re going to want to eat here as often as I do. Just a couple…

Photo of Eugene "Hot Sauce" Williams from a profile in the March 1950 issue of Ebony magazine

Eugene “Hot Sauce” Williams

The contributions of African Americans to our country’s barbecue culture are often overlooked. The influences can be hard to trace, which make it tempting to ignore them. Throughout Texas and the rest of the country, records of black barbecue culture are either gone or never existed in the first place. Most newspapers and magazines were written by and for whites, and mentions of black men and women making real social contributions were few, especially when it comes to restaurants. It…

BBQ News: 06/10 – 06/16

– It’s Barbecue Week on Eater: Barbecue Week on Eater starts right now: — Eater (@Eater) June 13, 2016   – Here are the best ribs in Austin according to Eater Austin.  – Eater Houston talks with Jerry Pizzitola about how he got into the barbecue business.  – Mattie John Bamman recounts his journey to become a certified KCBS barbecue judge.  – Tasting the menu at Snow’s BBQ:   – Eater explains why…

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