Reviews, News, & Interviews

Barbecue Crossfire

The nation is talking about Texas’s new open carry policy, and two pistol-packing pitmasters are grabbing headlines for their opposing views. Trent Brooks, of Brooks Place BBQ, welcomes open carriers to his Cypress barbecue trailer, and in fact offers a ten percent discount for anyone showing off their firearm (the 25 percent discount reported by many was just for New Years Day); on the flip side, Jack Perkins of Slow Bone Barbeque in Dallas is asking gun owners to…

Freedmens Sausage 02

Sausage Making, Freedmen’s Style

When a process is notoriously complicated and unpleasant, people tend to trot out a time-worn idiom: you don’t want to know how the sausage gets made. While the saying is especially useful when it comes to any political bureaucratic dealing, it’s a bit derogatory and it slightly diminishes the art of the craft, a sentiment I’m sure Freedmen’s Bar pitmaster Evan LeRoy would agree with. Recently Freedmen’s, one of the best new barbecue joints in Texas, was as stop on…

Qui Short Rib 02

Smoked in Texas: Wagyu Shortrib at Qui

There’s little room for variety in the smoked beef ribs you find at Texas barbecue joints—salt, black pepper, and smoke are doled out in big doses on impressively large hunks of beef and bone. They make for an imposing sight, and are a far cry from what anyone would consider refined. Then, along came a photo of the delicate, boneless rectangle of smoked wagyu short rib at Qui in Austin that drew me in for a…

Evie Mae's Brisket

Best Barbecue Bites of 2015

Last year I covered my most memorable bites of barbecue from around the country. This year I’m just looking at you, Texas. It was a great year for barbecue, and an even better one for Texas barbecue specifically. From this list you can see how much I enjoyed some good pastrami, and that the second half of 2015 was a really good one in my barbecue travels. TOP 25 (in chronological order) BBQ on the…

BBQ News: 12/18 – 12/31

– Operation BBQ Relief is doing great work in tornado-damaged Rowlett: – Restaurant owners, including those of Slow Bone and Lockhart Smokehouse supplied free meals to those affected by the storm in Red Oak. – Chris Osburn traveled the American South to find his picks for the best barbecue in the country. Not surprisingly, there are a few from Texas. – I talk with the Texas Standard about great barbecue on the edges of Texas….

Prime Rib 02

Prime Rib Primer

Over the last few days, I’ve shared recipes for a from-scratch ham, a smoked fried turkey, and a smoked pork crown roast. Now for the mother of all holiday meal centerpieces: the prime rib. Aside from beef tenderloin, prime rib is usually the most expensive cut of beef you can buy. In the days before Christmas, they fill the cases of butcher shops and grocery stores, testament to their popularity for holiday meals. While it’s easy…

Pork Recipe 04

Ugly Pork Crown Roast

Pork crown roast is a popular cut with an inferiority complex. It wants to be taken as seriously as prime rib, thought it would probably settle for the respect of rack of lamb. Alas, a bone-in loin of commodity hog isn’t much to look at, so butchers dress it up by making a meat wreath out of it, then topping that wreath with little paper hats. It’s cute, and the trussed-up porcine crown does make for a…

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More →
The Science of the Smoke Ring
And why it has no bearing on the quality of brisket.
Spareribs for Texas
Spare the Rib and Spoil the Profit
In the Land of Links
The SETX Beef Link Trail
The Many Briskets of Texas
An examination of the various cooking categories
The Best Turkey in Texas
Smoked birds for which we can give thanks.
The Boucherie
A Hog Killing in Louisiana
Grease Balls of Southeast Texas
The Not-So-Famous Beef Links of Patillo's Bar-B-Que
John Lewis Jr.’s BBQ Roots
NM -> TX -> SC
Where Has All the Hill Country Barbecue Gone?
Cooking with coals has stopped being cool
The Modern Marvel of Kuby’s Sausage House
Fourteen Generations of Sausage


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