Hwy 29 BBQ

110 W State Hwy 29
Bertram, TX 78605

Phone: (512) 277-7020
Hours: W-Sat 11-7:30, Sun 11-3
Website: www.hwy29bbq.com
Twitter: @Hwy29BBQ
Facebook: www.facebook.com/pages/Hwy-29-BBQ/165948360257038

Opened 2013
Pitmaster Corey Thibodeaux and Morgan Scott
Method oak in an indirect heat pit

TMBBQ Rating: 4

TMBBQ Buzz

Comments from our joint finder app.
Brisket is really good and tender! Has great smoky flavor. This place also has a butcher!
Nathaniel Cox @ Vincek’s Smokehouse, 2014-08-31 18:30:40
The hunt for the best barbecue continues with the second joint today. This is a small victory as I have always wanted to hit more than one restaurant on the Texas Monthly Top 50 BBQ establishments in a single day. Billy's Old Fashion Barbecue happens to be number 9. I have a hair less than four years to visit the other 41 before the list is updated. I have my work cut out for me as these places are as far at 500 miles from home. I wasn't hungry when we rolled into Jasper, but I was here to eat barbecue. I knew I wanted brisket and when we found the dilapidated restaurant, I knew we were going to experience some magic. I chose the sliced brisket sandwich. I wasn't expecting this monstrosity as it was quite large. Topped with pickles and onions, this sauce soaked sandwich was perfect. I only wish I had ordered the sauce on the side. The sauce was decent, but I came for the meat. The sliced brisket was very nice. It was juicy and the fat was rendered beautifully. It was a bit toothsome, but it certainly wasn't tough. I had forgotten to ask for untrimmed meat, so I was pleased when I saw that the crusty bark was intact. The meat had a mild flavor. Not too much smoke, and it wasn't overpowered with seasoning. It was a simple, beefy masterpiece. At only 2 1/2 hours from home, I can see myself loading up the family for a nice meaty adventure. This is easily a 4.0/5.0. Well done, Texas Monthly. This BBQ doesn't disappoint.
Theodore Luoma @ Billy’s Old Fashion BBQ, 2014-08-31 01:12:51
It has been a few months since I was able to hunt for some good Texas BBQ. It is a bit of a tradition that my oldest daughter, Alli, and I enjoy. I'm not a hunter, so we aren't likely to go kill deer as we spend time together, but we have our own game we like to track down. We decided to have lunch at the Hitch-N-Post in Livingston, TX. It's 3 1/2 hours from home so we had time to work up an appetite. We both ordered untrimmed fatty brisket which in my estimation, is the best tasting meat. I usually try the sausage as well, but we are planning an early supper at another BBQ place and I don't want to gorge myself. The brisket, though cooked, could probably have used another four hours in the smoker to completely render the fat and make the meat fork tender. I actually had to use a knife to cut the meat. There was a beautiful smoke ring and a decent crust, but I was hoping for a denser crust. Then again, this ain't Lockhart. The beans were good, but they were punched up canned beans. The potato salad probably came from Brookshire Brothers, but I came for the meat. The sides are just a bonus. Apparently, the proprietor has a policy to give free cake to first time customers. He was a really nice BBQ enthusiast as he asked if I had tried Snow's in Lexington. Then he started showing me pictures of BBQ joints on his phone. The ambience was a schlockfest with old tricycles dangling from the ceiling and tiki umbrellas reminiscent of Gilligan's Island. It was enjoyable soaking it in while I soaked up sauce with my bread. The food was good. I would rate it a 3.0/5.0, but with the outstanding service and friendly atmosphere, I rate it a solid 3.5. Hitch-N-Post is definitely worth a visit if you are in the area.
Theodore Luoma @ Hitch-N-Post BBQ, 2014-08-30 18:24:06
It has been a few months since I was able to hunt for some good Texas BBQ. It is a bit of a tradition that my oldest daughter, Alli, and I enjoy. I'm not a hunter, so we aren't likely to go kill deer as we spend time together, but we have our own game we like to track down. We decided to have lunch at the Hitch-N-Post in Livingston, TX. It's 3 1/2 hours from home so we had time to work up an appetite. We both ordered untrimmed fatty brisket which in my estimation, is the best tasting meat. I usually try the sausage as well, but we are planning an early supper at another BBQ place and I don't want to gorge myself. The brisket, though cooked, could probably have used another four hours in the smoker to completely render the fat and make the meat fork tender. I actually had to use a knife to cut the meat. There was a beautiful smoke ring and a decent crust, but I was hoping for a denser crust. Then again, this ain't Lockhart. The beans were good, but they were punched up canned beans. The potato salad probably came from Brookshire Brothers, but I came for the meat. The sides are just a bonus. Apparently, the proprietor has a policy to give free cake to first time customers. He was a really nice BBQ enthusiast as he asked if I had tried Snow's in Lexington. Then he started showing me pictures of BBQ joints on his phone. The ambience was a schlockfest with old tricycles dangling from the ceiling and tiki umbrellas reminiscent of Gilligan's Island. It was enjoyable soaking it in while I soaked up sauce with my bread. The food was good. I would rate it a 3.0/5.0, but with the outstanding service and friendly atmosphere, I rate it a solid 3.5. Hitch-N-Post is definitely worth a visit if you are in the area.
Theodore Luoma @ Hitch-N-Post BBQ, 2014-08-30 18:24:05
Third in line pound of lean got two ends and a sausage PERFECTION worth the drive ft worth good food good folks
doug_wallace @ Louie Mueller Barbecue, 2014-08-30 15:38:00
Loved that there was no wait unlike that other place on East 6th. Fatty brisket was as advertised. Pepper on crust was perfect. Jalapeño sausage was okay. Loved the cheesy squash - my new favorite side. No beef ribs today sadly. Drank the BBQ sauce too; very good stuff.
Rahul Yaratha @ John Mueller Meat Co., 2014-08-29 16:44:19
Brisket was moist, but tough. Needed more smoke. Spare ribs were ok.
mrb @ Rudy’s Bar-B-Q, 2014-08-27 02:53:29
Stopped at Rudy's at Leon Springs. Not good. Brisket was moist but tough. Ribs were fair.
mrb @ , 2014-08-27 02:47:40
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Review

HWY 29 BBQ 01

March 11, 2014

This stone covered building along Highway 29 in Bertram was once home to barbecue royalty. Bertram Smokehouse had a place in Texas Monthly’s Top 50 BBQ joints in 2008. Then they moved into a bigger building across the tracks and soon folded. Tin Star BBQ also came and went a couple years back. Now Corey Thibodeaux and Morgan Scott have the pits fired up again since opening the doors here last August.

HWY 29 BBQ 04

Hwy 29 BBQ interior and menu

Painted wood ceilings tower above after walking through the front door. The floor is a simple polished concrete and the walls are mostly undecorated white plaster. A few simple wooden tables and larger picnic tables made for communal seating fill the interior. A small ordering counter is in the back of the space with a bold yet scant menu. Brisket, ribs, sausage and chicken are the meat options. Beans, slaw and potato salad are the only sides. It’s a classic Texas barbecue menu within a classic barbecue setting.

Meat is sliced at the front counter as you order. The option for fatty or lean brisket is given. I liked the direction thus far as I watched a blackened behemoth of beef quiver under the knife’s faint pressure. This brisket was gonna be good. The ribs have what looked like a cherry lacquered finish with a generous smattering of black pepper. A link of sausage was sliced and placed on the tray, but chicken would have to wait for another time. It was gone for the day. As Scott explained “nothing carries over to the next day.” That means they have to be conservative when loading the pits, especially on a weekday where the regulars might feel more like eating at the Tex-Mex place down the street.

HWY 29 BBQ 05

Texas Trinity at Hwy 29 BBQ

The spare ribs had a great smokiness to accompany the hammy flavor from a good amount of salt. Those ribs were big, and required some serious gnawing to separate meat from bone, and the black pepper bit back. The brisket was superb from the first bite to the last. It had a muted pepper flavor compared to the ribs and a sweet vanilla overtone from the post oak. At 2:00pm the beef was still plenty moist with a crisp exterior from the well formed bark. Links of garlicy sausage come from Miiller’s Smokehouse in Llano. The casings had great snap and the filling was juicy.

Scott helped developed the blend for this particular sausage that is now carried at the Miiller’s storefront in Llano. Scott grew up on barbecue in Lockhart, so he wanted to try an 85%-15% beef-to-pork ratio with a coarse grind, but was warned away from it. It seems Hill Country folks prefer a finer grind and more pork, so they acquiesced to the sausage maker and went with a 60%-40% beef-to-pork mix. It seems to have worked out because this was a good one with plenty of spice.

The sides come from all over Texas. Corey’s wife makes the banana pudding, the potato salad is from Morgan’s mom, and the beans are from Texas author Frank Dobie’s recipe. They were all good, but the only one I finished was the creamy pudding. It had plenty of banana chunks and on top were crumbled Nilla wafers mixed with cinnamon and sugar. This is what most banana puddings aspire to be. If you like mustard in your potato salad, then you’ll like this hearty mixture, and the simple beans were well seasoned and satisfying. Nothing was overdone, overwrought, or overthought. It was well executed food that tasted like some old-timers made it, not a gaggle of twenty-somethings.

HWY 29 BBQ 02

Banana pudding, potato salad, pinto beans

Hwy 29 BBQ is in an old building, but the smoker is brand new. They built it before the place reopened. There’s one smokestack with two big steel smoker chambers lined with stone coming off either side. They use all post oak to smoke and keep things low and slow.

HWY 29 BBQ 03

New custom smoker

These folks are putting out some great Central Texas barbecue here on the edge of the Hill Country in Bertram. Just don’t come on a Monday or Tuesday. As Morgan Scott explained “you’ve gotta be closed for two days to get one day off in the barbecue business.” So for five days a week, just forty-five minutes outside of Austin, you’ll find classic Texas smoked meats and sides in a classic Texas barbecue joint in a classic Texas small town. That sounds like the makings of a road trip.

Comments

  • Sherry Woodard

    Great BBQ, always have them vacuum pack some to bring home to Southeast Texas.

  • Katie Green

    I’m so glad you gave the banana pudding a try – it’s impossible to not fall in love with Molly’s puddin. :) It’s the perfect finish to their delicious brisket!

  • Helivet

    I ordered the puddin’ because that the real stuff that goes with BBQ.

  • Silvia Vandenberg

    Best BBQ in the area. Must try!

  • Jenny Swinton

    The ribs are unbelievable and the cole slaw is among the best I’ve ever had. Great atmosphere too.

  • Traces_of_Texas

    Glad to know that this place is legit as I’ve passed by several times wondering whether or not it was worth a try.

  • jimwashburn

    Just drove by. It was open, but I didn’t stop because I’m full of huevos rancheros. I’ll plan to be empty next time I go that way.