Smoked in Texas

Smoked in Texas: Sausage at Big Creek Butcher Shop

Coming around the bend on Craik Street in Marlin, it’s hard to miss the huge black letters set against a white background announcing your arrival at the Big Creek Butcher Shop. Look closer and you’ll see a pile of pecan wood and a steel smoker. You might even notice the gate and cattle chute next to it. Those are your first clues that this isn’t your usual neighborhood meat market. Craig Garrison and his sister Lisa bought the shop in…

Smoked in Texas: Smoked Brisket Tacos at Plantation BBQ

It’s become a fairly common sight in Texas: smoke rising from a little trailer parked in a gravel lot alongside the highway. But the Plantation BBQ trailer in Richmond was running a trailer long before it food trucks were de rigueur. Richmond is southwest of Houston, about forty minutes from downtown, but if you’re heading into town, you’ll miss Plantation BBQ. Highway 90A splits in Richmond, and you can only pull over into the lot where…

Smoked in Texas: Sausage at Galvan’s Sausage House

After more than thirty years of doing laundry for the local school district, Clemente Galvan Jr. chose a second career: barbecue. It hasn’t been easy. The pit room at Galvan’s Sausage House has burned down twice, most recently in 2014. He works long hours at the small restaurant along Highway 90 in Richmond, and the effort shows in the great homemade sausages. Clem, as his family calls him, was born in a neighborhood in Rosenberg called Little Mexico…

Mel-Man Sandwich

The Mel-Man sandwich is the product of a barbecue epiphany. The East Texas specialty, which consists of brisket and sausage chopped together instead of layered on top of each other, is named after a man who once hated barbecue. It’s big, hard to eat, and best with plenty of barbecue sauce. It’s also addictive. Mel Garcia started working for Bodacious Bar-B-Que back in 1984, and he didn’t think much of the cuisine when he got the…

Smoked in Texas: The Hillbilly Pacifier

Hans Muller is a second-generation baker in Fort Worth, but he’s no stranger to smoking meat. His lunch menu at the Swiss Pastry Shop includes a smoked cuban sandwich, the Fort Worth Cheese Steak made with smoked prime rib, and he’s now working on a recipe for homemade pastrami. If you’re lucky, the specials board just inside the door might include something smoked like the Hillbilly Pacifier, a dish I found there last week. On…

Smoked in Texas: Beef Short Rib at Provisions

Barbecue and other smoked foods are making their way into fine dining faster than I can spit out liquid smoke. Often smoke is used as just another layer of seasoning, or maybe the barbecue is portioned and presented with a flourish on the plate. Not so at Provisions, the more casual half of The Pass & Provisions in Houston, where a hulking smoked beef rib is tucked into the dinner menu in between chicken saltimbocca and a…

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