Smoked in Texas

Smoked in Texas: Beef Short Rib at Provisions

Barbecue and other smoked foods are making their way into fine dining faster than I can spit out liquid smoke. Often smoke is used as just another layer of seasoning, or maybe the barbecue is portioned and presented with a flourish on the plate. Not so at Provisions, the more casual half of The Pass & Provisions in Houston, where a hulking smoked beef rib is tucked into the dinner menu in between chicken saltimbocca and a…

Pastrami Beef Ribs

When I first saw a pastrami beef rib on the menu at The Granary in San Antonio, my heart nearly skipped a beat (no blood pressure jokes, please). It was late 2012, and I’d never seen such a thing. Six months later, after I was named the Barbecue Editor, it was one of the first things I ate as part of my new job duties. The verdict? I wanted to love it, but it was…

Smoked in Texas: Mushroom Pastrami

Oliver Sitrin is no stranger to pastrami experimentation. During his time as chef at Blind Butcher on Greenville in Dallas, he’s taken his thin-sliced beef pastrami and piled it high on rye (a traditional presentation, to be sure), as well as tucked it into an egg roll. He’s made tender duck pastrami, paired it with duck bacon, and served it on a pretzel roll. And now, at the new Goodfriend Package Store on the other side of town, Sitrin…

Smoked in Texas: Smoke-Brined Fried Chicken

The best fried chicken in Dallas is served at a barbecue joint. Any self-respecting pitmaster might cringe when I suggest the fried chicken to prospective customers, but chef and pitmaster Jeffrey Hobbs at the Slow Bone Barbeque in Dallas is plenty proud of his unique smoke-brined fried chicken. Hobbs credits their chicken supplier as a factor in the fried chicken’s taste. They use the same supplier as Chicken Express for both the fried and the…

Smoked in Texas: Smoked Pork Taco at Garcia’s

Despite the blasphemous ways they treat their smoked meats, Garcia’s in San Antonio makes a mean barbecue taco. I knew all about their now-famous smoked brisket taco because of its rapid rise in popularity: CNN named it one of the ten best tacos in America; Eater called Garcia’s one of their two favorite restaurants in San Antonio; and Tasting Table featured the taco’s recipe near Cinco de Mayo last year. All that, plus Texas Monthly‘s story on the 120 tacos you must…

Smoked in Texas: Wagyu Shortrib at Qui

There’s little room for variety in the smoked beef ribs you find at Texas barbecue joints—salt, black pepper, and smoke are doled out in big doses on impressively large hunks of beef and bone. They make for an imposing sight, and are a far cry from what anyone would consider refined. Then, along came a photo of the delicate, boneless rectangle of smoked wagyu short rib at Qui in Austin that drew me in for a…

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