Smoked in Texas

The Bubba Tater

The Bubba Tater is one of the most daunting dishes to tackle in Texas barbecue, that is if you plan to eat the whole thing. Most joints just list it as a barbecue baked potato, but it usually starts with a russet potato the size of a Nerf football. When you order one, they’ll probably ask if you want butter. The answer should be “Yes.” You’re already in for a huge carbo load, so you…

Tim Rattray’s Spinalis

San Antonio chef Tim Rattray visited Dallas last week to be the guest chef at Knife for one in a series of special collaboration dinners benefiting RED*. Throughout the week, Knife’s chef John Tesar invited five chefs including Aaron Franklin of Austin’s Franklin Barbecue and Rattray from the Granary which is known for their boundary-pushing barbecue menu featuring items like brisket ramen and smoked shoulder clod with quinoa. Some of Rattray’s courses in Dallas were pretty straightforward…

On Sausage Wraps

The sausage wrap is underrated. It’s too simple to get much attention, but it deserves more than bottom-of-the-menu status. At its most basic, a sausage wrap is a link of sausage wrapped in a single slice of white bread. You can call it a wrap, a roll-up, fold-over, or sandwich. Call it whatever you want (well, maybe “taco” is too far per the comments section, they’re known as “Polish tacos” in South Texas), but it’s…

All the Sausages

Making sausage ain’t easy. There’s the trimming, grinding, seasoning, stuffing, and then the smoking. For barbecue joints, buying a few boxes of cheap sausage from your food distributor is a tempting prospect when compared to the hours required to make your own. But Texas is a place where smoked sausages are a part of our barbecue identity. Whether it’s from the Czech, German, or Beaumontian sausage making traditions, or it’s an innovative modern recipe, a good smoked sausage is the signature of…

Hot & Fast Beef Chuck Short Ribs

It was Valentine’s Day, and some neighbors – who have also been married long enough to stay away from restaurants on the 14th – agreed to join us for dinner. I picked up a couple racks of beef ribs and had planned to smoke them indirectly. After too many dinosaur rides at Jurassic Quest (we did it for the kids) and a late lunch, I was tight on time. Some experimenting was in order. I figured I’d see…

Pastrami at Pieous

Joshua and Paige Kaner opened Pieous in early 2013. They took over an old Cartwright’s BBQ building southwest of Austin on Highway 290. The plan was always to cook with fire, so a custom wood-fired oven was installed to cook the pizzas. A rotisserie smoker was left behind by the previous owners, so they decided to add house-made pastrami to the menu. Now about half of the customers add pastrami to their order at this…

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