Smoked in Texas

Smoked in Texas: Pollos Asados Los Norteños

It was the smoke that stopped me. The juice and fat from fifty-some-odd chickens mixed with mesquite charcoal to form a steady stream of smoke high above the roof line of Pollos Asados Los Norteños in San Antonio. I was scouting another barbecue joint and had stumbled upon the popular spot on Rigsby just south of I-10. As the smell of grilled chicken filled my car, I knew I had to double back. My ignorance of this chicken…

Smoked in Texas: Pulled Pork at Chico & the Fox

A barbecue truck in Austin is nothing new, but there’s plenty about Chico & the Fox that is unconventional. They don’t serve sausage, ribs, or even brisket. This truck is dedicated to pulled pork. You also won’t find a rustic smoker out back. Everything is smoked in an electric Masterbuilt cabinet smoker strapped to the tail of the truck. Yet even if they don’t have a pile of wood, the pulled pork heaped on their sandwiches still…

Smoked in Texas: Sausage at Big Creek Butcher Shop

Coming around the bend on Craik Street in Marlin, it’s hard to miss the huge black letters set against a white background announcing your arrival at the Big Creek Butcher Shop. Look closer and you’ll see a pile of pecan wood and a steel smoker. You might even notice the gate and cattle chute next to it. Those are your first clues that this isn’t your usual neighborhood meat market. Craig Garrison and his sister Lisa bought the shop in…

Smoked in Texas: Smoked Brisket Tacos at Plantation BBQ

It’s become a fairly common sight in Texas: smoke rising from a little trailer parked in a gravel lot alongside the highway. But the Plantation BBQ trailer in Richmond was running a trailer long before it food trucks were de rigueur. Richmond is southwest of Houston, about forty minutes from downtown, but if you’re heading into town, you’ll miss Plantation BBQ. Highway 90A splits in Richmond, and you can only pull over into the lot where…

Smoked in Texas: Sausage at Galvan’s Sausage House

After more than thirty years of doing laundry for the local school district, Clemente Galvan Jr. chose a second career: barbecue. It hasn’t been easy. The pit room at Galvan’s Sausage House has burned down twice, most recently in 2014. He works long hours at the small restaurant along Highway 90 in Richmond, and the effort shows in the great homemade sausages. Clem, as his family calls him, was born in a neighborhood in Rosenberg called Little Mexico…

Mel-Man Sandwich

The Mel-Man sandwich is the product of a barbecue epiphany. The East Texas specialty, which consists of brisket and sausage chopped together instead of layered on top of each other, is named after a man who once hated barbecue. It’s big, hard to eat, and best with plenty of barbecue sauce. It’s also addictive. Mel Garcia started working for Bodacious Bar-B-Que back in 1984, and he didn’t think much of the cuisine when he got the…

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