Smoked in Texas

Smoked in Texas: Macaroni & Cheese Sausage

The Smokey Denmark barbecue trailer on East Fifth Street in Austin has a new head pitmaster: Keenan Goldis. Goldis recently took over for Bill Dumas (who is now working with Lance Kirkpatrick at Stiles Switch), and he may be a familiar name to anyone who enjoyed his wild creations at the Goldis Sausage Company trailer before it closed earlier this year. I never made it there, so I was happy to see he’d been brought on by…

Smoking a Lamb Brisket

I ate a lot of lamb around the state a few months back, but it’s a protein I had never cooked in my own smoker. Given that the most common cut found at Texas barbecue joints is the bone-in lamb breast, that’s what I went searching for. While the cut isn’t easy to find in grocery stores, Walmart Supercenters should carry it (or, at least, my local one in Dallas is selling it for $2.56 per pound). I opted instead…

No End to KC Getting Burnt by Texas

Kansas City deserves all the credit for one of barbecue’s greatest inventions: the burnt end. These are the crusty ends from the fatty side of the brisket that are cubed into bite-sized morsels. They’re sometimes re-seasoned and/or sauced, then smoked further to get more tender and a bit crunchy around the edges. Without them, the only brisket Kansas City would have to offer are those limp slices of deli roast beef that they call sliced brisket. Kansas…

You Say Potato…

Since delving into a Bubba Tater from Pappas Bar-B-Q in Dallas, I’ve been eating a lot more baked potatoes than normal. It’s been a search for some of the best and most outrageous stuffed potatoes. This is by no means a complete list of the best potatoes in the state, and it skews toward East and North Texas where the barbecue-stuffed potato has a higher degree of popularity. These aren’t your average Bubba Taters. Butter,…

Not Your Average Vegetables

I was eating the third of several courses at a Texas Monthly dinner hosted by Chris Shepherd at Underbelly in Houston. On the family-style platter were meaty ribbons of beef belly (smoked by Ronnie Killen) topped with a chile mostarda. Underneath were bright orange carrots with a black crust. They were tender on the outside, but still crunchy inside. The flavor was intensely sweet, but it was the rushes of barbecue flavor that knocked me back….

Pork Brisket

Meat suppliers are always looking for ways to fetch a premium for their cuts of meat. Maybe they just get lucky with something like beef brisket that just gets more popular, but more often they accomplish this by finding different ways to market the cuts they already have or alter the way they break down the animal. Cuts like the hanger and Denver steaks have only been found on restaurant menus for a decade, and the Las Vegas…

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