Smoked in Texas

Fran’s Brown Pig Pizza

Barbecue and pizza are two items that usually don’t join forces on a restaurant menu, but in the East Texas town of Daingerfield they’ve come together at Fran’s Barbeque and Pizza since 1971. Fran’s is named for Frances Neely. She was married to Dick Neely, and worked at the storied Neely’s in Marshall serving Brown Pig sandwiches. She took the recipe for the famous sandwiches to Daingerfield, and then she added a pizza oven. There’s a…

Smoking Sausages

The Rabrokers have been selling their family recipe German sausage out of Westphalia Market since 1963. The tiny town of Westphalia sits between Zabcikville and Lott on Highway 320 (about twenty minutes east of Temple), and the market is a great reason to take a detour. They make several kinds of sausage, but I was interested in the Famous Westphalia Sausage recipe. Pat Rabroker runs the place now. The last name may be familiar from a…

Smoked in Texas: Epicerie Cafe in Austin

Nothing about this bungalow with a French name screamed smoked meat. Well manicured ivy enveloped the Épicerie sign out front, and the interior looked more like a wine and cheese bar, but the menu had a different message. Smoked house made boudin and beef pastrami, a smoked goat sandwich special, and even a salad with a smoked tomato dressing. I could eat well, and get my greens. I learned of chef Sarah McIntosh’s smoked tomato vinaigrette in…

More than Leftovers at Slow Bone

When Jack Perkins opened the Slow Bone in Dallas last year, it was with a standard barbecue menu. Since then he’s been tinkering with ways to use up leftover meat. Perkins doesn’t want to serve you yesterday’s ribs, but throwing them out would be bad business sense, not to mention disrespectful to the animal. This no-waste goal has led him into some uncommon menu territory compared to most barbecue joints, but these aren’t your grandma’s…

A Tour of Houston Sausages

As one third of the Texas barbecue trinity, smoked sausage has important stature in Texas. Central Texas has its beef sausages, East Texas has got hot links, and you’ll find plenty of smoked boudin along the Louisiana border. In Houston, they have it all as J.C. Reid and Michael Fulmer showed me in a guided tour last week through the south side of town. There are still plenty out there still left to try, but…

Smoked in Texas: Pasta at Oak

Smoke has become a popular new ingredient in all kinds of cuisine outside of the barbecue realm. Chef Richard Gras of Oak in Dallas is pushing those limits. He is smoking pasta. Well, technically he is smoking flour over mesquite chunks, then using that flour for his house made pasta. The process was documented by Zagat in this video:   Last week, I went into Oak to get a taste of this pasta. The smoke…

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