I was eating the third of several courses at a Texas Monthly dinner hosted by Chris Shepherd at Underbelly in Houston. On the family-style platter were meaty ribbons of beef belly (smoked by Ronnie Killen) topped with a chile mostarda. Underneath were bright orange carrots with a black crust. They were tender on the outside, but still crunchy inside. The flavor was intensely sweet, but it was the rushes of barbecue flavor that knocked me back….