Smoked in Texas

Smoked in Texas: Dry-Aged Brisket at Killen’s Barbecue

The experimentation never seems to end at Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland. Some days you can do a side-by-side taste test of different beef rib varieties, on others owner Ronnie Killen and pitmaster Manny Torres are serving flights of various smoked briskets. And when I stopped in last week they were having some fun with dry-aged brisket. Dry-aging is a revered process in steakhouses that provides a signature nutty flavor to ribeyes and strips and fetches big…

Deep-Fried Barbecue in San Angelo

John Young is now settled in his native West Texas, but he took a circuitous route to get back there. He sold his barbecue joint in Sachse, northeast of Dallas, in 2001 and moved to Philadelphia for a corporate job, and then five years ago he moved back to San Angelo and opened Rio Concho Catering. The catering company eventually led to Peepsi’s Barbeque and the Concho Pearl Icehouse, which though very different joints in San Angelo, share…

Smoked in Texas: Smoked Corn at Kerlin BBQ

Kerlin BBQ in Austin has been known for their ribs and brisket since opening in 2013, but Bill and Amelis Kerlin really made a splash with their smoked-meat kolaches. Those have been so much of a hit that soon  they’ll have a dedicated kolache truck. I must admit that the savory pastries had become a bit of a distraction for me during my last several visits here, but I recently stopped in for lunch and found one of…

Smoked in Texas: Breakfast at Smoke

Barbecue for breakfast in Texas usually means an old time smokehouse that happens to open early. Whether it’s a ring of sausage and a Dr Pepper at Smitty’s in Lockhart or the whole menu at Snow’s BBQ in Lexington, you can find breakfast if you look hard enough (though the only eggs you’ll usually get are in the potato salad). Things are different at Smoke in Dallas. The Saturday and Sunday brunch have become one…

Smoked in Texas: Chicken Wings at Green Mesquite

Green Mesquite has been a fixture in South Austin since Tom Davis opened the place in 1988. The restaurant now has three locations, but the original on Barton Springs Road has all the charm of a real joint and one of the coolest neon signs in Texas. There’s an even better one inside—a glowing red bovine to remind you of the backbone of Texas barbecue: beef. But I’m here to tell you just how good their chicken is. I was first…

Smoked in Texas: Stuffed Potato at Smoke to the Bone BBQ

Gregory Johns didn’t learn to cook barbecue from his family, books, videos, or from a mentor. He taught himself through trial-and-error. As he told me, “You burn some meat, you get it right next time.” His journey began in 1998 when he purchased a steel barrel smoker. Eight years later, Johns is still smoking with the same pit and selling the biggest stuffed potatoes in Dallas at Smoke to the Bone BBQ. When Johns first got…

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