Reviews

Clark’s Outpost

In 1974 Warren Clark opened a little barbecue shack in Tioga, Texas, and it didn’t take long before it became the darling of food critics, chefs and celebrities. In 1989, Alan Richman, then writing for People, claimed “Clark produces the best barbecue in Texas, which is something to brag about.” Dallas chef Dean Fearing became a Warren Clark disciple and would ferry visiting chefs to Tioga for a bite of barbecue. Robert Del Grande and Stephan…

Kerlin BBQ

Kerlin BBQ isn’t yet a year old, making it one of the youngest barbecue joints in Austin to be mentioned with the big names. Owner and pitmaster Bill Kerlin is also pretty new to the craft of smoking meat. “I never cooked a brisket until I moved to Texas.” That was three years ago when he and his wife Amelis left Arizona for Austin. They were looking for a change of pace from Arizona and…

Hinze’s BBQ

Nothing about Hinze’s BBQ in Sealy says trendy. It’s situated a half block from I-10, and right next to a Whataburger. Just like that Whataburger, Hinze’s has a drive-thru stacked with vehicles. There were so many cars that I went inside to find their massive menu displayed on LED screens above the ordering counter. The red flags were mounting. There are five different fried meat items that aren’t steak. I nearly lost my nerve when…

Brown’s Bar-B-Que

Brown’s Bar-B-Que has one of the best briskets in Austin, and one of the best side items in Texas. When I visited a year ago (at their previous location) I found the brisket to be the weak link, but no longer. Pitmaster Daniel Brown has found the sweet spot in his trailer mounted steel smoker, and Austin is the beneficiary. These days the Brown’s trailer is parked out front of Corner Bar on South Lamar. On…

Hickory House Bar-B-Que

Johnny Doyle cooks on a gas-rotisserie, but he’d do it differently if he could. He takes pride in the barbecue he puts out in his nearly forty year old Denison restaurant, so when he had pit fire that destroyed his Oylers, he wanted to replace them. “[J&R Manufacturing] told me it would be a couple months before I could get an Oyler built, so I bought two Southern Prides instead.” Now he just can’t get…

Perk’s Bar-B-Que

Melissa Perkins grew up in Colbert, Oklahoma just across the Red River from Texas around the same time that the legendary PO Sam had his barbecue joint along Franklin Street in Colbert. A friend of hers worked at the barbecue joint, so when she took her friend to PO Sam’s after school she’d get a barbecue sandwich as payment for the ride. That’s where Perkins developed an affinity for Sam’s barbecue, and more importantly for his…

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