Reviews

Brown’s Bar-B-Que

Brown’s Bar-B-Que has one of the best briskets in Austin, and one of the best side items in Texas. When I visited a year ago (at their previous location) I found the brisket to be the weak link, but no longer. Pitmaster Daniel Brown has found the sweet spot in his trailer mounted steel smoker, and Austin is the beneficiary. These days the Brown’s trailer is parked out front of Corner Bar on South Lamar. On…

Hickory House Bar-B-Que

Johnny Doyle cooks on a gas-rotisserie, but he’d do it differently if he could. He takes pride in the barbecue he puts out in his nearly forty year old Denison restaurant, so when he had pit fire that destroyed his Oylers, he wanted to replace them. “[J&R Manufacturing] told me it would be a couple months before I could get an Oyler built, so I bought two Southern Prides instead.” Now he just can’t get…

Perk’s Bar-B-Que

Melissa Perkins grew up in Colbert, Oklahoma just across the Red River from Texas around the same time that the legendary PO Sam had his barbecue joint along Franklin Street in Colbert. A friend of hers worked at the barbecue joint, so when she took her friend to PO Sam’s after school she’d get a barbecue sandwich as payment for the ride. That’s where Perkins developed an affinity for Sam’s barbecue, and more importantly for his…

Bubba Moses Pit BBQ

Chances are you won’t just happen upon Bubba Moses Pit BBQ in Dawson. The tiny town is along State Highway 31 between Corsicana and Waco. Even if you’ve driven that route, a well-timed sneeze might cause you to miss Dawson entirely. If you’re alert, look for the steady mesquite smoke that rises behind a metal building along the north side of the road. That’s where Donnie “Bubba” Moses does his cooking, and there’s nothing in the wood…

Mack’s Split Rail Bar-B-Que

In Wyatt McSpadden’s book Texas BBQ from 2009 there are two evocative early-morning photos of the tall smokestack at Mack’s Split Rail Bar-B-Que in Mineola. Other than these photos, I hadn’t seen or heard much about the place and wondered if maybe it had closed. On a trip to Tyler for a barbecue festival, I took the long way from Dallas through Mineola, and I found Mack’s very much open for business at the corner…

Ed’s Smok-N-Q

A accolade from two years back brought me to this renovated Sonic on the east side of San Antonio. A local media outlet (I don’t recall which one) wrote that Ed’s Smok-N-Q served the best brisket in the city. That claim in San Antonio doesn’t carry quite the weight as the same utterance in Austin, but it’s still noteworthy. In the list of Texas’s largest cities, San Antonio’s barbecue scene has taken the longest to mature (the…

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