Reviews

Eddie Deen’s BBQ

East of Dallas, there’s a twenty mile stretch of Highway 205 that connects Rockwall and Terrell. Right in the middle is a converted barn, complete with a grain silo, that houses Eddie Deen’s BBQ. You might know that name because you’ve had a catered meal at the Eddie Deen Ranch in downtown Dallas, or maybe you’ve attended a recent Texas gubernatorial inauguration, but the Deen family has opened several restaurants around the area over the…

The Shack Bar-B-Q

If I had visited The Shack Bar-B-Q six months ago, I would have easily called it Lubbock’s best barbecue. Nowadays the once bare barbecue market in town is suddenly crowded with the addition of The Shack and nearby Evie Mae’s Barbecue, a three-month-old trailer that is one of the best new barbecue joints I’ve found in some time. At The Shack, partners Kyle Farris and Kelly Henning have some catching up to do to match their new local competition, but…

The BBQ Shop

The smell of manure hit me when I broke the seal of the rental car door in Farwell, Texas. Just a mile and a half south of town is a sprawling cattle feedlot, and traveling the ninety minutes from Amarillo I drove through towns like Bovina and Hereford. Just by the names you now they’re not growing tulips out here on the Plains. This is cattle country. You can see New Mexico while standing in the gravel parking in…

Evie Mae’s Barbecue

The best barbecue in Lubbock is in Wolfforth, Texas. That might be news to you even if you’re a student at Tech because Arnis and Mallory Robbins just opened their trailer doors three months ago. After a stint with a landscaping company in Tucson, they decided to come back to Texas with their young daughter Evie Mae to pursue a barbecue dream. They didn’t make it easy on themselves. First, they’re cooking with all wood…

Bodacious Bar-B-Q (Marshall)

Popular restaurants all over the world have signature dishes, some even have just one item that makes them a dining destination. You go to Katz’s Deli in New York for pastrami, Mary’s Cafe in Strawn, Texas for chicken fried steak, and nobody complains about the fish at House of Prime Rib in San Francisco. At Bodacious Bar-B-Q in Marshall, Texas you go for the ribs. “A chain!” you ask? Yes. Bodacious is a mostly East Texas (there…

El Machito

Restaurateurs dismissing the use of all wood cookers saying “the city won’t let us cook with wood” no longer have an excuse, at least not in San Antonio. Just beyond a low counter that they call the altar at El Machete, there’s a crackling mesquite fire, the flickers of which you can gaze at from the dining room. There’s a commercial kitchen hood above, and animals speared onto rebar in between. This is barbecue in the…

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