Reviews

King’s Hwy Brew & Q

Emilio Soliz began his barbecue career in a good spot. As a young man, he was the pitmaster at Two Bros. BBQ Market when they were named to the Texas Monthly Top 50 joints. Soon after, Anthony Bourdain visited and snapped a photo with Soliz—his reputation was on the rise. Then came a falling out with ownership that led to his departure, and Soliz and his wife, Christi, got a trailer of their own called Sweet Christi’s…

Old 300 BBQ

Even if the 300 migrants first given land grants in Texas didn’t make it to Blanco, Old 300 BBQ is still a good lesson in Texas history. The Hill Country joint is dubbed in honor of those original settlers; their names adorn the walls and modified Texas battle flags are etched into the concrete floor (“Come and Eat it”). The restaurant’s name lets you know to expect classic Texas barbecue, and that’s exactly what they deliver. If you came for brisket,…

Ronnie’s BBQ

Ronnie Weiershausen is a rare breed. Although most every barbecue joint out there is using an offset smoker or a rotisserie, Weiershausen still prefers the old-fashioned way of burning oak logs down to coals to feed the pits at Ronnie’s BBQ in Johnson City. The smell of fat dripping onto the hot coals perfumes the gravel parking lot, and even the highway just beyond it if the wind is just right. It’s the smell of direct-heat…

Coach’s Bar-B-Que

It was one of those rare times I wasn’t looking just for brisket. The possibility of a well-smoked burger on Coach’s menu was the draw. It reminded me that I’d never had a good one, and this joint just west of Waco might be the breakthrough. Certainly, a patty of smoky ground beef had been achieved by a few joints around the state, but none had managed to serve it with more juiciness than a crouton….

Back Home BBQ

Just a few months after opening in early 2015, Dallas’s Back Home BBQ pulled a barbecue mulligan: They shut it down. The already renovated Chinese restaurant got re-renovated. A new patio and sign were installed, and the menu was overhauled. When it reopened last November, pitmaster Carl Anderson began cooking with oak in a J&R smoker that sits in the kitchen, but he told me when he first started out they were using an Alto-Shaam. Dallas…

The Witt Pit BBQ

Randy Witt bet on a cursed location in the small town of Rosenberg for his first restaurant. He had run a successful catering business with his wife, Shauna for sixteen years before jumping into the restaurant business. “This building has been a barbecue joint for thirty years,” Witt told me, but the name changed often as new owners would rotate in, at least three within the past four years. Now Randy and Shauna are trying to change all…

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