Reviews

Red Wagon BBQ

Just north of Waco, out on Gholson Road, you’ll find the Red Wagon BBQ trailer. It sits at the back of a gravel lot in between Brazos Valley Cheese and the Homestead General Store at the entrance of Homestead Heritage. Homestead Heritage describes itself as “an agrarian and craft-based intentional Christian community.” As a member of the group, Joe Slack lives on the property and serves as the pitmaster to Red Wagon BBQ. Slack sat down with me…

The Grove Smoke Shack

At the Grove, a new development on the south side of Tyler, a small wooden building is sandwiched between crisp white structures. I could see the smoke rising above the shiny metal roof from the parking lot, so I assumed it was the barbecue joint. It was called the Smoke Shack, after all. It’s part of a larger collection of venues at the Grove, which also includes the main restaurant, a bar, a takeout market, and an event space….

Top 5 BBQ

Four years ago, Davetta Greene bought a used barbecue pit for $40. It was a gift for her husband, Kendon. After fried pork chops caused two separate fires in their home kitchen, she thought it was time he moved his cooking outside. He didn’t take to the pitmaster role immediately. “It was horrible,” he told me as Davetta nodded with a grin. “It just looked wrong,” she added. Undaunted, Kendon traded up to a larger smoker. When…

Pat Gee’s Barbecue

The hand-painted wooden sign reads “Pat’s Barbecue,” but everybody calls it Pat Gee’s after its late founder, Mack Henry “Pat” Gee, who opened this barbecue shack east of Tyler, deep in the piney woods, sometime around 1963. Pat, his wife Vida, and their seven children lived just up the hill from the small, wooden building. “We all worked here at one point,” Billy Walker told me during a recent trip. He works here now with…

One90 Smoked Meats

This is not a barbecue joint. As the name suggests, they specialize in smoked meats, which are mostly piled in a sandwich. If you come to One90 Smoked Meats looking for a combo plate with slaw and beans on a plastic tray, prepare to be disappointed. But if you’re happy with a fantastic smoked meat sandwich that features lots of bold flavors, then you’re going to want to eat here as often as I do. Just a couple…

Intrinsic Smokehouse & Brewery

Cary Hodson wanted to bring a brewery to historic downtown Garland. City regulations said he needed food to go along with his craft beers, so he enlisted the aptly named Tex Morgan to bring the barbecue. They made room for an Oyler smoker, and now Intrinsic Smokehouse & Brewery has great brisket to go along with all that great beer, or vice-versa. It’s a big room. Beer tanks are on display up front followed by…

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