Reviews

David’s Barbecue

When I took the first bite from the towering chopped brisket sandwich at David’s Barbecue in Pantego, I thought this must be what Sonny Bryan’s used to taste like when it made it on everyone’s “best of” barbecue lists. You see, owner and pitmaster Jimmy Harris is part of the Bryan barbecue family. Elias Bryan, who opened a barbecue joint in Oak Cliff in 1910, was Sonny’s grandfather and Harris’s great grandfather. At David’s, Jimmy…

Southside BBQ

Cherokee sits in between San Saba and Llano in the Texas Hill Country. There aren’t many dining options in this town of a hundred seventy-five. A gas station has ready-made pizzas and there’s Southside BBQ on the weekends. Alva Zulauf and his wife Chris have operated a barbecue catering company for a long while, but it’s just been in the last three years that they settled into this permanent, year round location along Highway 16….

Heavy’s Outdoor Bar-B-Que

The fire burns brightly in a brick pit out front of Heavy’s in Hondo. It’s a hulking brick pit built by the McBee family back when they opened this barbecue joint, and it’s prominent location on the front corner of the building, along with the smoke that pours out of it, is a tempting advertisement for travelers driving through town. Back behind a tarp is a stainless steel Southern Pride rotisserie smoker. It looks like…

Ray’s BBQ Shack

In a gas station just south of the University of Houston campus you’ll find some of the best fried catfish you’ll ever eat and some great barbecue to go along with it. The barbecue comes from the experienced hands of co-owner Ray Busch who has been serving smoked meat to the public via a food truck since 1985. He didn’t settle down here until he made his good friend Maxine Davis his business partner three years…

Naaman Championship BBQ

Darby Neaves wanted to be included in the page of Texas Monthly, and he knew that wouldn’t happen with a food truck set up in Arkansas, even if it was just ten miles north of the Red River in Ashdown. It was still worrisome moving his business into the city, but after Justin Fourton of Pecan Lodge calmed Neaves’s nerves during a visit to the Dallas barbecue joint, he was ready. Late last year he found…

FM Smoke House

FM Smoke House began with sous vide brisket and bacon grease injections. The owners of Holy Grail Pub in Plano had some success with inventive barbecue items at their weekend “Smoke Out” barbecue events, so they brought some of those ideas along when they branched out last year into Irving to serve barbecue. A few months after opening, the gimmicks weren’t working. The brisket was dry and flavorless. The bacon grease had long seeped out…

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