Reviews

Back Country Bar-B-Q

After forty-one years, Back Country Bar-B-Q has a new owner. Scott Collard was the longtime general manager at Big Al’s Smokehouse, another Dallas barbecue institution, before striking out on his own. He and his wife, Teresa, bought the place in July from Frank Hart, who founded Back Country Bar-B-Q in its original location on East Northwest Highway in 1975. When Hart moved the business to its current location at Park and Greenville in 1988, he brought…

The Pit BBQ

If you think barbecue sauce on smoked brisket is an abomination, then you might want to sit down. At the Pit BBQ in San Angelo, they cover sliced brisket with creamy peanut butter and grape jelly in a sandwich they call the Jail Break, and I loved every bite. Pitmaster and co-owner D.J. Ridenour got the idea from Willie’s Joint in Buda. He worked several night shifts on the smoker before ever seeing a menu, then…

Big O’s BBQ

“What are butter fires?” I asked the server. There was a big table waiting to order behind me, and she responded succinctly: “They’re fries with melted butter poured on top.” Thus began my more-decadent-than-usual meal at Big O’s BBQ in Valera. Big O’s is the only establishment in tiny Valera, a town with a population too small to print on the city limit sign. The place isn’t too big, either. The single restroom is labeled as “transgender” with…

Dylan’s Barbeque Saloon

Bryan Mahoney was a catering veteran with a barbecue itch. When Dylan Johnson, the co-owner of Milo’s Bar in Arlington, called about a potential partnership for a bar and barbecue joint in Dallas, Mahoney was in. They opened the doors to Dylan’s Barbeque Saloon nearly a year ago, with Johnson running the bar and Mahoney manning their new custom-built smoker. Dylan’s Barbeque Saloon sits along the busy Northwest Highway, west of I-35, just before the turn-in…

Stringer’s Lufkin Bar-B-Que

A couple of years back I compiled a list of Texas barbecue treasures, or joints that had been open for at least fifty years. But it wasn’t until recently that I noticed that Stringer’s Lufkin Bar-B-Que was the oldest on the list without a mention on TMBBQ. They celebrated 65 years in deep East Texas just last year, and there’s more to the place than the fried rolls they’re so famous for. Lufkin Bar-B-Que was a shack when it…

Caroline’s Quality and Quantity Bar-B-Que

Twenty years ago, Arthur Yarbough’s family was trying to develop a recipe for beef links. Arthur doesn’t sugarcoat his recollections of his older sisters’ attempts: “They wasn’t worth nothing.” So he gave it a try. It took some time and effort, but now Arthur’s beef links are a weekend staple in the small town of Kountze, about thirty minutes north of Beaumont. Arthur and his wife, Caroline, opened the joint in a small building just off the…

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