Reviews

Smoke Shack BBQ

Three years ago I ate some promising barbecue from a food truck in the shadow of I-410 in San Antonio. Chris Conger was doing it all that day inside what was called Conger’s Smoke Shack, cooking, slicing, and making change. Last year he had stowed away enough change to make the jump into a steep-roofed building along Broadway just north of the swanky Pearl district. The food truck is still hanging around the highway at lunch time,…

Smokin’ Guns BBQ

With the rising cost of meat, specifically beef brisket, inexpensive barbecue is becoming rare today. It’s especially difficult to find a decent version of it. Finding $20 per pound brisket isn’t a challenge in Austin, Dallas, and Pearland, but that doesn’t fly in Corsicana. At Smokin’ Guns BBQ on the west side of town you’ll pay just $12.95 for a pound of hickory smoked beef, and a three meat platter with two sides is a whopping…

Chuck’s Bar-B-Q and Burgers

“The good smell in Evadale” is the tag line painted on a wooden fence beside Chuck’s Bar-B-Q and Burgers which sits about thirty minutes north of Beaumont. Folks say the local paper mill produces a stench, and the smoke from owner Chuck Howard’s pit is sometimes the only relief. I didn’t get a whiff of any pulp, but the “burger” end of the name is what perfumed the dining room just after the lunch hour….

Gerard’s Barbecue

George Gerard didn’t have much time for adjustment to running a barbecue joint. He had planned to leave behind the family business for a life as an electrician in Austin, but his parents pleaded with him to come back home to Beaumont. He relented and a short time later, his father Joseph passed away suddenly. Without much grooming, the business was George’s to run. Not much has changed since Joseph opened the restaurant in the…

Off the Bone Barbeque

It’s not exactly new, it’s not flashy, and it’s not dogmatic about the barbecue style it serves, but Off the Bone Barbeque in Dallas’s Cedars neighborhood is just good. Dwight Harvey has run this joint in a converted gas station with his son Steven since 2008. It was a scheme to keep Dwight busy after retirement, and to take the next step in their successful catering business. I’ve written about it in the past, and spent…

BBQ Godfather

Spring, Texas is evidently large enough for more than one great food truck. This town of 50,000 just north of Houston has been home to Corkscrew BBQ, a Texas Monthly Top 50 selection, since 2011. Now, just five minutes east is a new food truck park where BBQ Godfather sits between a Cajun food truck and The Cupcake Shack. Word is starting to get out and owner Tony Faour said business grows every week. A few picnic tables…

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